Up in Mount Merrion, which is quintessential south Dublin suburbia, and just opposite the old cinema where Flanagan’s used to sell hideously over-restored furniture, is a great favourite: Michael’s (57, Deerpark Road, Mount Merrion; phone 01 278 0377).This little gem – and I use that word advisedly – is the creation of Michael and Mary Lowe. It has been described by my friend and colleague, Paolo Tullio, as a little bit of Milan in Mount Merrion but there’s more to it than that.It’s a first class deli and there’s a lovely range of wines, mainly Italian. But the food is what attracts people back again and again. Last time I was there I noticed that Michael had a basket of fresh chanterelles on the counter and I admired them. “Will I make you lunch from them and some Taleggio”, he asked. I didn’t put up a struggle!The combination of wild mushrooms, melted cheese and toasted sourdough was superb: simple and unimprovable. And the combination of it and the glass of outstanding Soave that came with it was simply heaven.Needless to say, the coffee is exceptional and all the glorious cakes and sweet things are baked right there in the small kitchen, all of which is in full view.A visit to Michael’s never fails to rekindle my faith in the world and I leave it a much happier and, I hope, slightly better person every time.